It’s not only the mischievous leprechauns we’re dealing with in this 
mystical country, its witches and ghouls. Ireland does Halloween in a big way! There are Halloween parties going off everywhere and Monday is a public holiday to celebrate all things other-worldly!
As we follow the narrow, winding roads of the Wild Atlantic Way along the northern edge of Northern Ireland, we are spellbound by the remote, rugged countryside. Woods, waterfalls, glens, sheer cliffs, long stretches of pristine, footprint-free beaches, and long-deserted ancient castles and manor houses.
We happily get lost following little offshoots leading us off the beaten track. Sometimes the country road is just wide enough for one car… especially with hedges either side. Then add a line down the middle… this is Ireland’s example of a two-way road! (wish I’d taken a photo). Greg, I’m sure you remember well our frightening, foggy drive into the unknown ending up at the cliff edge together! (much to the horror of our B&B host!) One day, we came around the corner of one hedge-lined bend coming face-to-face with two huge tractors reversing down the road! Yikes!
We have also been very lucky with our gorgeous B&Bs and our generous hosts. One particular place was the luxurious Crowfield House near Coleraine and our hosts, Sam & Pat, were incredibly hospitable and made their own bread, jams & delicious breakfast. We have found staying at B&Bs throughout Ireland and England to be the very best way of getting to know the culture and people – and always great value.
We have been on the hunt for traditional music, but our timing has been off, so to speak. Sam & Pat suggested we go to the local pub which always has music. The Irish Elvis was not exactly what we were looking for, but it was good fun anyway. It was a fundraising night and we walked right into a fancy dress party! Lots of evil looking ghouls, ghosts, witches, crazy characters etc., and that was just the locals! Just another night in a remote little village in Northern Ireland.
As we continue to follow the Wild Atlantic Way, we 
cross the border from Northern Ireland to the Republic of Ireland (Co. Donegal) and this was only indicated by the signage changing to Gaelic and the miles to kilometres. We now head for the very northern tip of Ireland. Such beautiful green rolling hills (so green, it hurts your eyes!), stone hedges, sheep farms, more cliffs, beaches and fierce bracing winds. The weather remains cold, cloudy and windy, but no rain!
Our next stop was rugged and remote Tremone Bay, staying in a farm house 5 minutes from the perfect beach. The entrance to the house is through a fruit orchard and it is a working sheep farm. Our warm host welcomed us with home-made bikkies and scones with a cuppa sitting by the peat fire in a really old fashioned home. Aaaah… If I was to bottle the essence of Ireland… this would be it. Such a perfect setting. If conditions align, the Northern Lights can be seen from here.
Then there was Finn. He was a beautiful red 
setter and he took us for a walk to the beach after our afternoon tea. Yes, he really did take us for a walk… he would run on ahead to show us the way and when he got too far ahead, he kept doubling back to ensure we were following. Once on the beach, we were lucky to experience a very colourful sunset and we played tourist with our cameras while Finn romped along the beach trying to catch birds and romping in the freezing waves. This place will always hold a special place in my heart and I hope to return one day.
Next on the itinerary was Bunbeg, a tiny little coastal hamlet at which we were based for the next two nights to explore the Glenveagh National Park. It’s an area of contrasts… rugged, barren mountains, moors, rivers, waterfalls, forests and lochs. Bruce and I both thought it was reminiscent of the Scottish highlands. Anne, I can understand how you would have loved this area for your family holidays. Thankyou also for your many tips and suggestions that made our trip so enjoyable.
Throughout our European adventure, our constant backdrop has been the stunning autumn colours, surrounded continuously by leaves fluttering gently down around us, leaving a soft carpet of colour. Mother Nature enveloped us in her beauty and colour throughout our journey with tunnels of colourful trees – what a sight!
On our last night in Ireland, we arrived back in Belfast to give it one last go to find that elusive traditional music. We have come across many wonderful artists in our search, but none of it traditional. But success at last!! At a charming pub called ‘Five Points’ we had front row seats to three very talented, very young musicians that did our musical hearts good! The Irish whiskey was also good. Greg, I still can’t work out the difference between a reel and a jig. I obviously need much more research, so will just have to plan another Irish adventure!
Back to Game of Thrones, the more I drank of my Irish whiskey, the more I saw members of the cast walk into 
our pub! Bruce assures me that the way I was going, he would be looking a lot like Jon Snow by the end of the night! No, Bruce isn’t that short!
We are now in the lounge at Heathrow Airport and as I write this last post of our holiday and reflect on the past four weeks, we marvel at how blessed we were to catch up with Matty, see the many amazing sights we’ve seen and meet the many characters along the way. We are so grateful to be able to experience just a little part of the wonderful world we live in.
Until next time, thanks for travelling along with us….
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